Chainmail ~ A WORK OF LOVE & PATIENCE…
“I find chainmail to be so similar to a woman – fluid, adaptable, made of a lot of links which are small and delicate on their own but when woven together they create a strong, resilient and beautifully intricate pattern. All at once intriguing, wonderfully tactile, elegant and feminine. And will stand the test of time in its strength and beauty” ~ Laetitia – Designer/Maker.
Chainmail (or chainmaille) is a type of armour consisting of small metal rings linked together, one at a time, in a pattern to form a mesh. It was generally in common military use between the 3rd century BC and the 16th century AD in Europe, and longer in Asia and North Africa. The name mail comes from the French word “maille”, which is derived from the Latin “macula”, meaning “mesh of a net”.
The use of mail as battlefield armour was common during the Iron Age and the Middle Ages, becoming less common over the course of the 16th and 17th centuries when plate armour and more advanced firearms were developed. It is believed that the Roman Republic first came into contact with mail fighting the Gauls in Cisalpine Gaul, now Northern Italy. The Roman army adopted the technology for their troops in the form of the lorica hamata which was used as a primary form of armour through the Imperial period.
After the fall of the Western Empire, much of the infrastructure needed to create plate armour diminished. Eventually the word “mail” came to be synonymous with armour. It was typically an extremely prized commodity, as it was expensive and time-consuming to produce and could mean the difference between life and death in a battle. Mail from dead combatants was frequently looted and was used by the new owner or sold for a lucrative price. As time went on and infrastructure improved, it came to be used by more soldiers.
By the 14th century, articulated plate armour was commonly used to supplement mail.
Mail typically persisted longer in less technologically advanced areas such as Eastern Europe but was in use throughout Europe into the 16th century. During the late 19th and early 20th century, mail was used as a material for bulletproof vests.
Chainmail Jewellery Inspirations
Several patterns of linking the rings together have been known since ancient times, with the most common being the 4-to-1 pattern (where each ring is linked with four others). In Europe, the 4-to-1 pattern was completely dominant. Mail was also common in East Asia, primarily Japan, with several more patterns being used and an entire nomenclature developing around them.
Historically, in Europe, from the pre-Roman period on, the rings composing a piece of mail would be riveted closed to reduce the chance of the rings splitting open when subjected to a thrusting attack or a hit by an arrow.
Up until the 14th century European mail was made of alternating rows of round riveted rings and solid rings. Sometime during the 14th century European mail makers started to transition from round rivets to wedge shaped rivets but continued using alternating rows of solid rings. Eventually European mail makers stopped using solid rings and almost all European mail was made from wedge riveted rings only with no solid rings
Chainmail remained in use as a decorative and possibly high-status symbol with military overtones long after its practical usefulness had passed. It was frequently used for the epaulettes of military uniforms. It is still used in this form by the British Territorial Army.
Chainmail has applications in sculpture and jewellery, especially when made out of precious metals. Mail artwork includes headdresses, decorative wall hangings, ornaments, chess sets, macramé, and jewelry. For these non-traditional applications, hundreds of patterns (commonly referred to as “weaves”) have been invented.
Because of its historical origins, I felt that it was a perfect technique to combine with Murano glass beads which are handmade using the same traditional methods of fabrication which glass Masters have perpetuated for more than a thousand years. These two medium are very opposite in their origins and original purpose – one being developed for battles, the other a most distinguished, refined art. And it is this contrast of rough and refined, of purposes, which I found intriguing and led me to combine both chainmaille and Murano glass.
To combine vibrant and unique little pieces of art with chainmaille transformed into delicate weaves of precious metals…
CHAINMAILLE AND MURANO GLASS JEWELLERY COLLECTION
I love combining the art of chainmaille with traditional silversmithing techniques, which I learnt at the AFEDAP Jewellery School in Paris. Chainmaille is beautifully fluid and tactile, and I love exploring the endless creative possibilities offered by mixing chainmaille with solid silver which I cut and shape by hand. It allows me to create modern, feminine and unique pieces of jewellery which are a true pleasure to wear.
CHAINMAILLE AND SOLID SILVER JEWELLERY COLLECTION
I find chainmail to be so similar to a woman – fluid, adaptable, made of a lot of links which are small and delicate on their own but when woven together they create a strong, resilient and beautifully intricate pattern. All at once intriguing, wonderfully tactile, elegant and feminine. And will stand the test of time in its strength and beauty. Elegant & Spirited…
Laetitia
NAIIAD Jewellery Designer and Maker
References:
